Wednesday, November 25, 2009

PETRANA'S MEATLESS PINTO BEANS

Submitted by Danilo Gurovich

Petrana was Danko Gurovich’s mother. She came from Montenegro to the United States through Ellis Island in 1901. When she and her husband, Elia, landed they were met by a man who spoke Montenegrin. He gave them train tickets to go to Montana, where a job was waiting for them. For the entire time on the train, they only ate ham and eggs, because that was the only food Elia could request in English!

Elia worked in the mines around Helena until 1908, when he heard about a large masonry dam being built in Arizona. Elia was a trained stone mason, so he moved to Miami, Arizona to work on the Roosevelt Dam. When the dam was finished, he settled in Miami and began working at the Miami Copper Company as a blacksmith. Elia saved enough money to purchase a boarding house.

The mines didn’t pay that well and, having to pinch pennies to feed children and boarders, Petrana melded a bean recipe from the old country with the local beans that were available – good old cowboy/Mexican Pinto beans. In what is an early form of Native American/Mediterranean fusion cuisine, here is Petrana’s “meatless” bean recipe, which is now nearly 100 years old. This is similar to a lot of bean recipes, but this is the way it was written down for us, so it’s near and dear to my heart.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 pound Pinto Beans
• 3 T Butter
• 1/3 C Olive Oil
• 3 C Water
• 1 large white Onion, chopped into slivers
• 5 cloves Garlic, finely chopped
• 5 Tomatoes, chopped (this is a “home-style dish”, so only peel and seed if your want)
• 1 big Bell Pepper, chopped
• 1 T Chili Powder
• 2 t Salt
• 1 t Pepper
• 1 t ground Cumin
• 1 t dried Oregano

INSTRUCTIONS

• Cover the Beans with water and soak them overnight. Don’t skip this step!
• Melt and brown the Butter in a pot.
• Add the Onions and let them simmer until they’re about halfway to clear.
• Add the Olive Oil and Peppers and let it all cook down.
• Add the Garlic, then the Tomatoes. Tomatoes cook pretty fast, so you need to add them last.
• Add the Salt, Pepper, Cumin and Oregano. Everything should be getting nice and cooked in the bottom of the pot. Don’t let anything burn.
• Drop the fire to warm & toss in the (pre-soaked & drained) Beans and the three cups of Water.
• Bring everything to a boil and then drop the fire down so it is just under a boil.
• Cook until the beans are done. This should take the better part of 3-4 hours. This is an all-day deal. The beans won’t go bad or get over-cooked as long as you keep them covered with water.

COPPER HILLS STYLE

• Throw a big friggin’ Ham Hock in there. Not meatless anymore, but it really brings in some great flavor. Remove hock after cooking.
• Add 1 t Tarragon


ADDITIONS & ALTERNATIVES

• If you want, put it all in a crock pot and let it cook for 8-10 hours.
• Throw in some julienned Green Chilies. My faves are Big Jim’s from New Mexico. Go on, be brave and enjoy!
• Add more herbs like Thyme, Tarragon, Chervil or whatever you like. Don’t get too crazy or you lose the bean taste in the mix.
• Beer is a good substitute for Water.

EDITOR’S NOTE: T (big T) = Tablespoon, t (little t) = teaspoon, C = cup

Monday, November 9, 2009

THE DANKO SPECIAL

Submitted by Danilo Gurovich

I'm Danko Gurovich’s son. I cooked at my dad’s Copper Hills Restaurant for years in grade and high school. Dad at one time owned The Dome Bar and the Fitzpatrick building. He also owned Johhny's and the California Cafe at one time. The Vandal Inn was his too, but it's long gone. My mom was a ticket-taker at the Grand Theatre. Dad, at the time, was a motorcycle cop and he used to ride up and down the street in front of the theater to get her attention. He finally got it, then bought the Vandal Inn. He got mom to work there part-time, and when he couldn't pay her, they got married. He paid up later, that's for sure!

One of the most often ordered dishes on the menu at the Copper Hills Restaurant was the “Danko Special”. It was a dish my dad developed. We ate it at our house for as long as I can remember. This dish had some Yugoslavian accents, some 1950s & 60s accents, and just a bit of “magic dust “sprinkled on by our Cordon Bleu-trained chef, Michel Gehin.

This special time for me seems so long ago. I never thought there would be a Globe-Miami without a Copper Hills. The “Danko Special” hasn’t been served in any commercial form since 1991. My father passed in 2000 and the Copper Hills Restaurant burned down in 2001. I want to release this recipe to those who remember ordering it, those who wonder just what the heck all the fuss about the Copper Hills Restaurant is and, finally, as a recipe everyone else will surely enjoy.

INGREDIENTS

• 1 medium Tomato
• 1 medium Bell Pepper
• 1 medium Onion
• 1/2 cup fresh Crimini Mushrooms
• 1 Top Sirloin Steak
• 1 tbsp Butter
• 1 tbsp Olive Oil
• 1-2 cloves fresh Garlic, minced
• Cooking Sherry
• 1/2 cup fresh Parsley, chopped

TO COOK IT DANKO’S WAY

• Prepare the Tomato by dipping it in boiling water and peeling the skin off.
• Cut the Bell Pepper in half across the “waist” and remove the seeds and membrane.
• Cut the Onion in half across the “waist”.
• Slice the Mushrooms in “pie slice” wedges.
• Fry the Steak in the Butter and Olive Oil.
• When one side of the Steak is done to your taste, flip it and add the Mushrooms and Garlic. Add more Olive Oil if necessary.
• Now add the Tomato and roll it around until it’s browned all over.
• WHILE THE STEAK IS COOKING, cook the Bell Pepper and Onion in separate pan coated with Olive Oil.
• When the Vegetables are nearly finished, pour the Sherry on the Steak. “Flame” it, if you like.
• Plate the Steak on a heated dinner plate.
• Put all the Vegetables on top of the Steak and pour the drippings all around.
• Sprinkle the top with chopped Parsley and serve.

ALTERNATIVE METHODS

I won’t lie that I like to cook, and I prefer to “modernize” the Danko Special a bit. Here are my suggested variations. Mix and match as you see fit.

• Use Dry Vermouth instead of Cooking Sherry (Marsala ain’t bad, either).
• Julienne the Onions and Peppers — it’s fun if you mix yellow, red and green, and even more fun if you throw in a “Big Jim” Chile.
• Plate the Vegetable mix first and use it as a “bed” for the Steak.
• Broil the Tomato with a light dusting of Parmesan, Asiago or any sharp Italian cheese.
• Use a Forest Mushroom mix, Chanterelles,etc.
• Serve this recipe with lumpy mashed potatoes & horseradish, polenta or even hash browns!

EDITOR'S NOTE: For instructions on how to "flame" (flambe) this dish, check out: http://whatscookingamerica.net/flambe.htm